Number of piers
Most of a slab bill is driven by how many supports go in and how deep they need to reach below East Texas clay.
01What typically goes wrong
The original piers in many older homes were short concrete or brick blocks resting on shallow footings. As the clay beneath them shrinks and swells, individual piers sink or tilt, and floors develop soft spots, bounces or slopes. Wood shims stacked on piers dry out, crush or slip over time.
Moisture is the second problem. A crawl space that stays damp invites wood rot and termites in sills, joists and beams. In Tyler's humid summers, poor ventilation or a plumbing leak can rot a sill plate surprisingly fast.
02Repair options
Re-shimming with steel shims is the lightest repair and can level floors that have only sagged a little. Where piers have failed, crews install new concrete piers on proper footings, or steel or pressed piers if the soil calls for deeper support. Rotted beams, joists and sills are cut out and replaced or sistered with new lumber.
Because the work happens in the crawl space, access matters. Some homes need a new or enlarged access opening. After structural work, a crawl space repair plan, such as vapor barrier, vent changes or drainage, helps the new wood last. If the whole house is far out of level, the job may be closer to full house leveling.
03Historic homes
Parts of Tyler, including the Charnwood and Azalea historic districts, are recognized for their older architecture. If your home is in a designated district, check with the City of Tyler about any rules on exterior changes such as new skirting or access openings before work starts.
Structural work under the floor is usually less restricted than visible changes.